I've had all the electronics error on me after a crazy wheelie incident; but it was because I slammed the bike down too hard as a result. Came to a light and turned the ignition off/on and it reset itself just fine. Not sure about yours.
If you change the fork oil, the active suspension will not work correctly. It was designed with the oil weight it came with. This was confirmed by Dave Moss and the shop he tells people to go to for deeper suspension changes.I had a track day last weekend and after 3 20 min sessions in the 4 session, the bike just popped a crazy wheelie when i opened it up on the straight.
I thought I had DWC in the wrong mode and rode the lap but the bike felt really funny. Some times hard and sometimes soft. After 2 or 3 corners i looked down to see the error messages and slowed down and came into the pits.
Thought it could be a glitch. so let her cool down for an hour. After that I removed the battery connector to see if an ECU reset will fix it. (that why the pic says set date and time)
It didn't. So I went out for a slow lap and the bike was not rideable. Forget DWC DQS and DTC. Just crazy suspension. Even in fixed mode.
I've had quick shifter issues, and my dealership is receiving the part this week. so I said I would get it all checked out together.
Only change I've done is change the front fork oil from 5w to 10w as the front was really soft for me.
Anyone else had this issue?
Thanks.
That's odd, I was just talking to Dave today and he said don't bother changing springs (stock is 1.05) instead change to 10W and 140 mm oil height.If you change the fork oil, the active suspension will not work correctly. It was designed with the oil weight it came with. This was confirmed by Dave Moss and the shop he tells people to go to for deeper suspension changes.
Same here. This is the advice I got from Dave. Go to 10w and increase oil by 10mm.That's odd, I was just talking to Dave today and he said don't bother changing springs (stock is 1.05) instead change to 10W and 140 mm oil height.
He said you could do a revalve but that would be "for more serious race application".
This was the front. Not the rear. I better check my rear now!There's actually a recall on that I believe; mine was fixed/replaced when it was in the shop for another issue (something about the rear wheel speed sensor clip)
Mine never had a front speed sensor recall... but as of mid November it did have a rear speed sensor clip recall while it was in the shop and they took care of it at that time.This was the front. Not the rear. I better check my rear now!
Thanks, I'll check mine for rubbingGuys... an update. Nothing to do with oil etc.
The Wheel speed sensor wire has somehow come loose and scrapped against the tire.
Pls see pic.
The Freakership tried saying it was a rat bite!
Had fun with them showing the abrasive marks on the wire saying rats graze at equivalent speed of 100mph.
pls see pic.
Please check you front wheel speed sensors and their wires.
Warranty replacement... thankfully
We changed the fork oil to Motul 10W and set the level to 140 mm as Dave suggested.That's odd, I was just talking to Dave today and he said don't bother changing springs (stock is 1.05) instead change to 10W and 140 mm oil height.
He said you could do a revalve but that would be "for more serious race application".
You didn't happen to adjust the preload in the front ohlins e forks? If you change the front fork preload and not reset ecu the bike will not like it!I had a track day last weekend and after 3 20 min sessions in the 4 session, the bike just popped a crazy wheelie when i opened it up on the straight.
I thought I had DWC in the wrong mode and rode the lap but the bike felt really funny. Some times hard and sometimes soft. After 2 or 3 corners i looked down to see the error messages and slowed down and came into the pits.
Thought it could be a glitch. so let her cool down for an hour. After that I removed the battery connector to see if an ECU reset will fix it. (that why the pic says set date and time)
It didn't. So I went out for a slow lap and the bike was not rideable. Forget DWC DQS and DTC. Just crazy suspension. Even in fixed mode.
I've had quick shifter issues, and my dealership is receiving the part this week. so I said I would get it all checked out together.
Only change I've done is change the front fork oil from 5w to 10w as the front was really soft for me.
Anyone else had this issue?
Thanks.
Guys... an update. Nothing to do with oil etc.
The Wheel speed sensor wire has somehow come loose and scrapped against the tire.
Pls see pic.
The Freakership tried saying it was a rat bite!
Had fun with them showing the abrasive marks on the wire saying rats graze at equivalent speed of 100mph.
pls see pic.
Please check you front wheel speed sensors and their wires.
Warranty replacement... thankfully
Please see my above post. The issue was the front wheel speed sensor.You didn't happen to adjust the preload in the front ohlins e forks? If you change the front fork preload and not reset ecu the bike will not like it!
Is your issue resolved yet?
It doesn't and I wouldn't think you'd need to.Guys where in the manual does it clearly state that you have to reset the ECU when making pre-load changes i.e. basic static sag setup?? I have made at least three sag setup changes with no problems. I'll keep reviewing the MX manual. The owners manual is useless for suspension setup.
I agree, but a forum member in this post says otherwise. I'd like this member to post up a manual reference. I have searched the owners and maintenance manual and found nothing that states to reset the Engine Control Unit (ECU) after making manual pre-load adjustments.It doesn't and I wouldn't think you'd need to.
I've adjust and taken preload all the way out on mine; no issues; followed Dave Moss video on the V4S eval and adjusting it is no different than any other bike except you just click the plug back in place afterwards.I never heard of it either, but a guy on ebay that sells a bunch of tools for the v4 bike and engine said it after I bought the tool to remove the fork tube cap.
He said it needed a ecu communication tool to do reset after preload adjustment.
I never heard of that but it made me not adjust preload on front forks yet...
I have the v4-s , and have any of you adjusted the front fork preload and not had any issues??
I wonder why someone would make that up.....
This is why I brought it up. Like playersnoopy I have made multiple fork and shock pre-load adjustments with no issues at all.I never heard of it either, but a guy on ebay that sells a bunch of tools for the v4 bike and engine said it after I bought the tool to remove the fork tube cap.
He said it needed a ecu communication tool to do reset after preload adjustment.
I never heard of that but it made me not adjust preload on front forks yet...
I have the v4-s , and have any of you adjusted the front fork preload and not had any issues??
I wonder why someone would make that up.....